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Gasherbrum - I Expedition

Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and Hidden Peak, a name given by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its extreme remoteness. It is the highest peak among them. It is also the 11th highest peak in the world and is the second highest in the Karakoram Range. It is one of the four 8,000m peaks located in a tight cluster on the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier, the main access route to the mountains which cuts through the center of the Karakoram Range. The Karakoram is the second tallest mountain range on earth. It lies about a thousand miles west of Nepal's Himalaya mountain range. The range is bordered by Tajikistan, China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India. It is a condensed cluster of high peaks with 60 mountains over 6900 meters. Of the world's fourteen highest mountains, four are located within the Karakoram Range: K2, Gasherbrum I and II, and Broad Peak.

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.

The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.

Gasherbrum I is one to the "least popular" of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to "The Japanese Couloir", which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

Trip Fact:

Country: Pakistan
Duration: 53 Days
Min. Altitude: (0m./0ft.)
Max. Altitude: (8068m./26470ft.)
Walking Per Day: Approximately 5-6hrs
Nature: Camping
Grade: Hard
Best Season: June-July.
Price Per Person: 00

Itinerary:

Day 01 Arrive Islamabad, transfer to hotel.
Day 02 Islamabad- briefing at Ministry of Tourism about Gasherbrum route.
Day 03 Drive to Chilas, transfer to hotel for overnight.
Day 04 Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 05 Skardu- Preparations.
Day 06 Drive to Thongal/Askole, overnight camp
Day 07 Trek to Korofong, overnight camp
Day 08 Trek to Chobraqk, overnight camp
Day 09 Trek to Paiju, overnight camp
Day 10 Trek to Urdukas, overnight camp
Day 11 Trek to Goro, overnight camp
Day 12 Trek to Concordia, overnight camp
Day 13 Trek to Sharing, overnight camp
Day 14 Trek to Base Camp
Day 15-47 RESERVED FOR CLIMBING GASHERBRUM
Day 48 Trek back to Sharing, overnight camp
Day 49 Trek back to Concordia, overnight camp
Day 50 Trek to Ali, camp. Overnight camp
Day 51 Trek to Low Camp via the Gondogoro Pass
Day 52 Trek to Dalsang Pa. Overnight camp
Day 53 Trek to Hushe, overnight camping
Day 54 Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel
Day 55 Skardu- relax at Skardu
Day 56 Drive to Chilas, overnight at hotel
Day 57 Drive to Islamabad, overnight camp
Day 58 Islamabad- debriefing at Ministry of Tourism
Day 59 Fly to onward destination - End of our Services for Gasherbrum

Cost Includes:

Base camp service

  • Arrival & Departure : Airport transfers-Airport/Hotel/Airport
  • Hotel In Islamabad : 4 nights in Islamabad 4 star Hotel on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room
  • Member transportation : Islamabad –Skardu by air Skardu to Askoly by jeep Askoly to Skardu by jeep Skardu to-Islamabad (by air ) and Staff transpotation Islamabad to Askoly to Skardu by Jeep Skardu to Islamabad By bus
  • Transportation : Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Member and Staffs From Islamabad –to Skardu by bus Skardu to Askoly (by jeep) –Base camp(by Porters)- base camp to Askoly (by porters) Askoly to Skardu (by jeep) Skardu to Islamabad by bus
  • Permit : G1 Expedition permit , National park fees.
  • Garbage Management : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees
  • Lodging & Fooding : Food 3 meals a day in Trekking & Base camp for member & Staffs
  • Cargo Clearance : International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes
  • Liaison Officer : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary ,accommodation.
  • Base Camp Staff : Base camp Cook & kitchen Helper
  • Porter : Porters per member up to Base camp & Porters return from Base camp
  • Staff Salary and allowance : All staffs & porters daily wages, equipment, food & clothing
  • Insurance : All Staffs Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance
  • Member Luggage : 60 Kg per member for personal baggage
  • Base Tent : VE25 North face or Kailas tents for base camp for per member
  • Base Base equipment : Base camp foam mattresses, dinning, Kitchen, Toilet & Store tents, hot shower, Tables & chairs & Cooking gears
  • Heater : Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp
  • Light : 1 Solar panel for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
  • Dinner : one Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Islamabad with Staff

Full board service

  • Oxygen : (O2)-Poisk cylinder: 02 oxygen bottle for each member and 01 oxygen bottle for each high altitude Sherpa
  • Mask & Regulator : 1 Set of top Out mask for each member and high altitude Sherpa
  • Permit : Satellite Phone /walkie talkie Phone if necessary in basis of Member
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa : 1 Climbing Sherpa per member and Climbing Bonus
  • High camp service : Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude tent, high food and fixing gear (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4)

Cost does not include:

  • Lunch & Dinner : Lunch & dinner in Pakistan Hotel stay and more then 4 nights in Pakistan Hotel
  • Insurance : Travel and high altitude insurance ,accident, medical & emergency evacuation
  • Personal Expenses : Telephone, Internet, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment and shopping
  • Pakistan's Visa : Pakistan Visa should take into your home country or should take visa upon arrival and pay visa fees as per the rule and regulation of Pakistan Government.
  • Sherpa summit Bonus & Tips : Sherpa Summit bonus US$1000 , please calculate some tips
  • Rescue Evacuation : Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed and all other personal nature expenses

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Expedition in Pakistan

 

Journeys in Pakistan

 
Expedition over 8000m
 
Fixed Departure 2017
 
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