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Himalayan Guides Nepal
 

Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse Expedition

Mt. Lhotse was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. Its lower peak, mount Lhotse Shar 8383m, sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, Mount Lhotse, which means "South peak" is a part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on mount Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. But by 1955, despite the activity on Mount Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

The first attempt on Mount Lhotse was by an international team in 1955. One member of the party was Erwin Schneider; during this expedition, he began work on the first of the series of high-quality "Schneider maps of the Everest region". The same Swiss party that made the second ascent of Everest in 1956 that made the first ascent of Mount Lhotse from a camp just below the South Col.

Mount Lhotse Shar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans attempted from various routes on its main peak. Poles and Italians also climbed the summit before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.

Itinerary

Day 01

Arrival Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.

Day 02

Kathmandu.

Day 03

Kathmandu.

Day 04

Transfer to the airport, fly to Lukla, 2800m and trek to Phakding, 2640m. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 05

Trek to Namche Bazaar, 3446m. Overnight in lodge.

Day 06

Trek to Khumjung, 3790m. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 07

Khumjung, acclimatization day.

Day 08

Trek to Tengboche Monastery, 3867m. Overnight in lodge.

Day 09

Trek to Dingboche, 4347m. Overnight in lodge.

Day 10

Trek to Lobuche, 4900m. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort..

Day 11

Trek to Everest Base Camp, 5357m.

Day 12-47

Climbing Period.

Day 48

Cleaning up Base Camp.

Day 49

Trek to Dingboche. Overnight in lodge.

Day 50

Trek to Khumjung. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 51

Trek to Phakding. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.

Day 52

Trek to Lukla. Overnight in lodge.

Day 53

Fly to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.

Day 54

Kathmandu.

Day 55

Departure from Kathmandu.

 

Cost includes:

  • 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (hotel 3 star).
  • Permit fee of Lhotse 8516m Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Lhotse
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  • Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 60 KG Per member
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  • Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  • Fare Well dinner

Cost does not include:

  • PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator
  • Personal expenses
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • Garbage Deposit and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.

 

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE/FITNESS
The technical difficulty of this climb is not high, but it is physically demanding with long days and sections with a lot of exposure. The trip is ideally suited to strong, experienced climbers who want to climb the peak in its own right, or to use the trip to gain experience for higher peaks in the future. To move efficiently and enjoyably we recommend you have experience of Alpine PD+/AD routes and /or an ability to climb Scottish grade 1/ll winter routes and previous experience of altitude of at least 4800m before.

A TYPICAL TREKKING DAY
Starts around seven am (not a problem as it’s usual to go to bed early!) with you packing your overnight gear into a kit bag before enjoying a hearty breakfast ready to leave camp whilst it’s still fairly cool. The pace on the trek will be leisurely with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, take photos, chat to the locals and keep hydrated. Lunch is usually in a fine spot by the side of the trail and, most days, you will be arriving at our overnight camp mid afternoon ready for a well earned cup of tea. This leaves an hour or so to rest or explore before a three course evening meal. It is quite remarkable what the locals can produce in these remote circumstances.

WEATHER CONDITIONS
The Post and Pre monsoon conditions experienced from October into mid-December. April-May are usually very fair, dry and stable. Daytime temperatures are pleasantly warm in the valleys (20-30C) whilst cool to very cold (especially with wind chill) high on Baruntse. Night time temperatures are cold to very cold (possibly as low as minus 30C) and you should make sure you have a very warm sleeping bag (-30c), an expedition weight down jacket and good quality down mitts.

CATERING ARRANGEMENTS
Food on the trek and at Base Camp is excellent and designed to stimulate your appetite despite frequent altitude induced loss of appetite. Breakfast includes porridge and cereal followed by eggs (fried, boiled poached or omelettes) and either bread or chapattis with jam, honey, peanut butter etc. Lunch starts with juice and may include chips, rice, lentils, vegetables, salad, sandwiches, beans, tinned fish and tinned meat. Dessert is usually fresh/tinned fruit and tea. The evening meal always starts with soup (often with a healthy dose of garlic to aid acclimatisation) accompanied by poppadums, popcorn or prawn crackers. The main meal varies from local style – Dal Bhat (rice and lentils with an onion and vegetable sauce), Yak stew, momos etc. to western style – yak burgers, chips, pasta, even pizza! Desserts are equally appealing and include apple pie, cake, custard etc. You will not be hungry! Once on the mountain we use dehydrated meals supplemented by chocolate, muesli bars, cheese, nuts, salami, etc

IMPORTANT – The small print
Please note, flights to and from Lukla can be delayed due to the weather. Please be patient and bring a good book to read. If the flight is delayed overnight accommodation is included on a B&B basis. In cases of longer delays, optional helicopter flights are sometimes offered at an extra cost.

MISSED INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS
We allow one extra day in the itinerary for bad weather. If you are delayed longer (unusual) we can re-book your International flight but additional costs may/will be incurred. Tickets can be changed according to availability and the class of ticket, you may need to upgrade and be flexible on your return date. All additional payment would need to paid for in Kathmandu (card payments accepted).

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM
We employ local staff to work alongside our own group leader giving employment beyond farming. We ask that you restrict showers to those lodges that have electricity or solar power, thus reducing deforestation. Be prepared to wash using bowls of warm water or ‘wet ones’. We recommend you dispose of burnable rubbish at the lodges but take other items such as bottles and batteries back to Kathmandu. Avoid plastic bottles of water by bringing iodine tablets and a refillable bottle to drink local pumped water. Soft drinks should be purchased in glass bottles that can be recycled.

ALTITUDE
Our itineraries generally allow sufficient time for your body to acclimatise. The best way to avoid any problems is to do everything slowly, walk at a gentle steady pace and drink plenty of fluid. Our leader will give an appropriate briefing on arrival.

USEFUL TIPS
Just in case your main luggage goes missing en route, it is a good idea to wear your boots on the plane. Most other things can be replaced but comfortable, well worn-in boots are more difficult to replace easily.

EQUIPMENT
A detailed equipment list is provided on booking. Specialist items such as sleeping bags and down jackets can be hired or purchased.

BAGGAGE
For your own comfort travel light. Normally airlines restrict baggage to 20kg and the Lukla flight 15kg, but you will be wearing boots and one set of trekking clothes. Some items can be left at the hotel for your return.

VISAS AND PERMITS
US/UK citizens and most EU nationals can purchase Visas on arrival. All other countries should check with their local embassy. Passports must be valid for at least six months after the end date of the trip.

LOCAL COSTS
Most meals are inclusive, please see the key above. Individuals are responsible for drinks throughout and hotel meals which gives the flexibility to choose where you eat.

CURRENCY
Nepalese Rupee. UK Sterling, Euros and US Dollars can easily be changed in Kathmandu. ATM (cash machines) are available in Kathmandu.

TIPPING
Tipping is generally expected and part of everyday life. We generally tip our own local staff as a whole. It is also usual to put approximately 1000 rupees into the pot for the Puja or mountain blessing – a very important part of Himalayan climbing.

EXTENSIONS
Everest Flight
An early morning spectacular flight over Everest.

Chitwan Wildlife Safari (plus 4 days)
You can round off your trek with a three day wildlife safari. This includes a jeep safari, jungle walk, river canoe trip and elephant ride combined with a cultural program in search of rhino and the famous Bengal tiger.

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