Mt. Lhotse Expedition Nepal

Mt. Lhotse was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. Its lower peak, mount Lhotse Shar 8383m, sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, Mount Lhotse, which means "South peak" is a part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on mount Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. But by 1955, despite the activity on Mount Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

The first attempt on Mount Lhotse was by an international team in 1955. One member of the party was Erwin Schneider; during this expedition, he began work on the first of the series of high-quality "Schneider maps of the Everest region". The same Swiss party that made the second ascent of Everest in 1956 that made the first ascent of Mount Lhotse from a camp just below the South Col.

Mount Lhotse Shar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans attempted from various routes on its main peak. Poles and Italians also climbed the summit before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.


Day 01Arrival Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.
Day 02Kathmandu.
Day 03Kathmandu.
Day 04Transfer to the airport, fly to Lukla, 2800m and trek to Phakding, 2640m. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.
Day 05Trek to Namche Bazaar, 3446m. Overnight in lodge.
Day 06Trek to Khumjung, 3790m. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.
Day 07Khumjung, acclimatization day.
Day 08Trek to Tengboche Monastery, 3867m. Overnight in lodge.
Day 09Trek to Dingboche, 4347m. Overnight in lodge.
Day 10Trek to Lobuche, 4900m. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort..
Day 11Trek to Everest Base Camp, 5357m.
Day 12-47Climbing Period.
Day 48Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 49Trek to Dingboche. Overnight in lodge.
Day 50Trek to Khumjung. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.
Day 51Trek to Phakding. Overnight at Himalayan Chain Resort.
Day 52Trek to Lukla. Overnight in lodge.
Day 53Fly to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.
Day 54Kathmandu.
Day 55Departure from Kathmandu.

Cost includes:

•         All airport-hotel – airport transport

•         Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu

•         4 (four) nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on BB basis

•         Domestic flight including all taxes

•         Excess baggage charge

•         Climbing permit fee.

•         Necessary number of porters/yak to carry load to & from base camp

•         Equipment allowance and insurance of Liaison officer

•         Personal climbing Sherpa with wages/equipment allowance/ insurance/high camps load ferry bonus

•         Cook and cook boys with their equipment allowance, wages and insurance

•         Best quality tents at Base camp with sleeping mattresses

•         Best quality dinning tent (Carpeting inside) with heater at Base Camp

•         All necessary kitchen & camping equipment at base camp and camp 2 along with table/chairs.

•         Shower facility at base camp

•         Fresh and organic food and beverages at Base Camp and imported quality high altitude food (individual packet)

•         Enough numbers of EPI gases with burner for high camps

•         Walkie-talkie and permit fee

•         Satellite phone for the emergency purpose (Personal call $ 3 per minutes)

•         Solar panel/Generator with accessories at base camp for recharging & power supply

•         Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes except the personal gears

•         Required Oxygen bottles with mask and regulator.

•         Insurance of local team members

•         Rope fixing fee

•         Ice fall fee

•         Accommodation and meal at tea house/guest house in/out to base camp

Cost does not include:

·         Travel insurance (Should include the helicopter evacuation as well)

·         International air tickets

·         Nepal entry visa and Visa fee

·         Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu

·         Personal climbing equipment

·         Cost of emergency evacuation

·         Expenses of personal natures

·         Summit bonus ( $ 1500)

·         Tips

The technical difficulty of this climb is not high, but it is physically demanding with long days and sections with a lot of exposure. The trip is ideally suited to strong, experienced climbers who want to climb the peak in its own right, or to use the trip to gain experience for higher peaks in the future. To move efficiently and enjoyably we recommend you have experience of Alpine PD+/AD routes and /or an ability to climb Scottish grade 1/ll winter routes and previous experience of altitude of at least 4800m before.


Starts around seven am (not a problem as it’s usual to go to bed early!) with you packing your overnight gear into a kit bag before enjoying a hearty breakfast ready to leave camp whilst it’s still fairly cool. The pace on the trek will be leisurely with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, take photos, chat to the locals and keep hydrated. Lunch is usually in a fine spot by the side of the trail and, most days, you will be arriving at our overnight camp mid afternoon ready for a well earned cup of tea. This leaves an hour or so to rest or explore before a three course evening meal. It is quite remarkable what the locals can produce in these remote circumstances.


The Post and Pre monsoon conditions experienced from October into mid-December. April-May are usually very fair, dry and stable. Daytime temperatures are pleasantly warm in the valleys (20-30C) whilst cool to very cold (especially with wind chill) high on Baruntse. Night time temperatures are cold to very cold (possibly as low as minus 30C) and you should make sure you have a very warm sleeping bag (-30c), an expedition weight down jacket and good quality down mitts.


Food on the trek and at Base Camp is excellent and designed to stimulate your appetite despite frequent altitude induced loss of appetite. Breakfast includes porridge and cereal followed by eggs (fried, boiled poached or omelets) and either bread or chapattis with jam, honey, peanut butter etc. Lunch starts with juice and may include chips, rice, lentils, vegetables, salad, sandwiches, beans, tinned fish and tinned meat. Dessert is usually fresh/tinned fruit and tea. The evening meal always starts with soup (often with a healthy dose of garlic to aid acclimatization) accompanied by poppadum's, popcorn or prawn crackers. The main meal varies from local style – Dal Bhat (rice and lentils with an onion and vegetable sauce), Yak stew, momos etc. to western style – yak burgers, chips, pasta, even pizza! Desserts are equally appealing and include apple pie, cake, custard etc. You will not be hungry! Once on the mountain we use dehydrated meals supplemented by chocolate, muesli bars, cheese, nuts, salami, etc.


IMPORTANT – The small print
Please note, flights to and from Lukla can be delayed due to the weather. Please be patient and bring a good book to read. If the flight is delayed overnight accommodation is included on a B&B basis. In cases of longer delays, optional helicopter flights are sometimes offered at an extra cost.


We allow one extra day in the itinerary for bad weather. If you are delayed longer (unusual) we can re-book your International flight but additional costs may/will be incurred. Tickets can be changed according to availability and the class of ticket, you may need to upgrade and be flexible on your return date. All additional payment would need to paid for in Kathmandu (card payments accepted).


We employ local staff to work alongside our own group leader giving employment beyond farming. We ask that you restrict showers to those lodges that have electricity or solar power, thus reducing deforestation. Be prepared to wash using bowls of warm water or ‘wet ones’. We recommend you dispose of burnable rubbish at the lodges but take other items such as bottles and batteries back to Kathmandu. Avoid plastic bottles of water by bringing iodine tablets and a refillable bottle to drink local pumped water. Soft drinks should be purchased in glass bottles that can be recycled.


Our itineraries generally allow sufficient time for your body to acclimatise. The best way to avoid any problems is to do everything slowly, walk at a gentle steady pace and drink plenty of fluid. Our leader will give an appropriate briefing on arrival.


Just in case your main luggage goes missing en route, it is a good idea to wear your boots on the plane. Most other things can be replaced but comfortable, well worn-in boots are more difficult to replace easily.


A detailed equipment list is provided on booking. Specialist items such as sleeping bags and down jackets can be hired or purchased.


For your own comfort travel light. Normally airlines restrict baggage to 20kg and the Lukla flight 15kg, but you will be wearing boots and one set of trekking clothes. Some items can be left at the hotel for your return.


US/UK citizens and most EU nationals can purchase Visas on arrival. All other countries should check with their local embassy. Passports must be valid for at least six months after the end date of the trip.


Most meals are inclusive, please see the key above. Individuals are responsible for drinks throughout and hotel meals which gives the flexibility to choose where you eat.


Nepalese Rupee. UK Sterling, Euros and US Dollars can easily be changed in Kathmandu. ATM (cash machines) are available in Kathmandu.


Tipping is generally expected and part of everyday life. We generally tip our own local staff as a whole. It is also usual to put approximately 1000 rupees into the pot for the Puja or mountain blessing – a very important part of Himalayan climbing.



Everest Flight
An early morning spectacular flight over Everest.


Chitwan Wildlife Safari (plus 4 days)
You can round off your trek with a three day wildlife safari. This includes a jeep safari, jungle walk, river canoe trip and elephant ride combined with a cultural program in search of rhino and the famous Bengal tiger.