Gasherbrum-1 Expedition
Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and Hidden Peak, a name given by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its extreme remoteness. It is the highest peak among them. It is also the 11th highest peak in the world and is the second highest in the Karakoram Range. It is one of the four 8,000m peaks located in a tight cluster on the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier, the main access route to the mountains which cuts through the center of the Karakoram Range. The Karakoram is the second tallest mountain range on earth. It lies about a thousand miles west of Nepal's Himalaya mountain range. The range is bordered by Tajikistan, China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India. It is a condensed cluster of high peaks with 60 mountains over 6900 meters. Of the world's fourteen highest mountains, four are located within the Karakoram Range: K2, Gasherbrum I and II, and Broad Peak.
Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.
The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.
Gasherbrum I is one to the "least popular" of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.
The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to "The Japanese Couloir", which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.
Trip Facts
Country: Pakistan
Duration: 59 Days
Minimum Altitude: 540 m / 1,770 ft (Islamabad)
Maximum Altitude: 8,068 m / 26,470 ft (Summit of Gasherbrum-I)
Walking Per Day: Approximately 5–7 hours (longer during glacier travel and approach)
Nature: Trekking, Glacier Travel, High-Altitude Mountaineering & Camping Expedition
Grade: Extremely Challenging / Expedition Level
Best Season: June–July (Summer Climbing Season)
Itinerary:
Day 1
Arrival in Islamabad
Arrive in Islamabad and transfer to your hotel. Rest and prepare for the journey ahead.
Day 2
Islamabad (Ministry Briefing)
Attend the official briefing at the Ministry of Tourism regarding the Gasherbrum-I route, permits, and expedition logistics. Prepare equipment and finalize plans.
Day 3
Drive to Chilas
Drive to Chilas along the Karakoram Highway. Transfer to the hotel and overnight stay.
Day 4
Drive to Skardu
Travel by road from Chilas to Skardu. Overnight stay at the hotel.
Day 5
Skardu (Preparation Day)
Organize equipment, conduct gear checks, and meet the team. Final expedition preparations and acclimatization for the high-altitude journey ahead.
Day 6
Drive to Thongal / Askole
Begin the approach to the Karakoram peaks by jeep, driving to Thongal / Askole. Set up overnight camp.
Day 7
Trek to Korofong
Trek along glacier-fed valleys to Korofong. Overnight camping in tents.
Day 8
Trek to Chobraqk
Continue trekking through rugged terrain, river crossings, and alpine scenery. Overnight at Chobraqk camp.
Day 9
Trek to Paiju
Proceed along the Baltoro Glacier, arriving at Paiju camp for overnight stay.
Day 10
Trek to Urdukas
Trek through glacial moraines and rocky terrain to reach Urdukas. Overnight camp.
Day 11
Trek to Goro
Continue trekking along the glacier to Goro camp. Scenic views of surrounding peaks accompany the route. Overnight camp.
Day 12
Trek to Concordia
Reach Concordia, the confluence of glaciers and base of many Karakoram giants. Overnight camp with panoramic mountain views.
Day 13
Trek to Sharing
Trek further along the glacier to Sharing. Overnight camping in tents.
Day 14
Trek to Gasherbrum Base Camp
Arrive at Gasherbrum-I Base Camp, situated below the mountain’s massive slopes. Overnight camp and final preparation for the climbing period.
Day 15 - 47
Climbing Period
Extended period reserved for acclimatization rotations, establishing higher camps, fixing ropes, and summit attempts on Gasherbrum-I (8,068 m). Summit rotation is attempted when weather conditions allow.
Day 48
Descent to Sharing
After the climbing phase, descend from Base Camp back to Sharing for overnight camp.
Day 49
Trek to Concordia
Continue descending along the Baltoro Glacier, arriving at Concordia for overnight stay.
Day 50
Trek to Ali Camp
Descend further along the glacier and reach Ali Camp. Overnight camp.
Day 51
Trek to Low Camp via Gondogoro Pass
Cross the famous Gondogoro Pass and reach Low Camp. Overnight camping.
Day 52
Trek to Dalsang Pa
Continue descent from Low Camp to Dalsang Pa. Overnight camp.
Day 53
Trek to Hushe
Finish the glacier trek and reach Hushe village. Overnight camping.
Day 54
Drive to Skardu
Drive back to Skardu and transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay and rest.
Day 55
Skardu (Rest Day)
Leisure day in Skardu for recovery and sightseeing.
Day 56
Drive to Chilas
Travel back along the Karakoram Highway to Chilas. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 57
Drive to Islamabad
Return to Islamabad for overnight stay at the hotel.
Day 58
Islamabad (Debriefing)
Attend a debriefing session at the Ministry of Tourism and share expedition experiences.
Day 59
Final Departure
Transfer to Islamabad airport for your onward international flight, marking the conclusion of the Gasherbrum-I Expedition.
Includes:
- All airport-hotel – airport transport
- 3 nights accommodations in Islamabad with breakfast
- All transportation in Pakistan, including round-trip flights from Islamabad to Skardu & Skardu to Islamabad. In the event these flights are cancelled we will usually wait a few days for another flight before making the 2 day journey by bus to Skardu
- Internet access & satellite phones in base camp. Satellite phone is available at $3 per minute
- Professional weather forecasting services from USA & European based meteorologists
- Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides
- All administration fees owed to Islamabad, including climbing permits
- Climbing permit fee.
- Necessary number of porters/yak to carry load to & from base camp
- Equipment allowance and insurance of Liaison officer
- Personal climbing Sherpa with wages/equipment allowance/ insurance/high camps load ferry bonus
- Cook and cook boys with their equipment allowance, wages and insurance
- Best quality tents at Base camp with sleeping mattresses
- Best quality dinning tent with heater at Base Camp
- All necessary kitchen & camping equipment at base camp and camp 2 along with table/chairs.
- Shower facility at base camp
- Fresh and organic food and beverages at Base Camp and imported quality high altitude food (individual packet)
- Enough numbers of EPI gases with burner for high camps
- Walkie-talkie and permit fee
- Satellite phone for the emergency purpose (Personal call $ 3 per minutes)
- Solar panel/Generator with accessories at base camp for recharging & power supply
- Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes except the personal gears
- Required Oxygen bottles with mask and regulator.
- Insurance of local team members
- Rope fixing fee
- Tented accommodation and meal at in/out to base camp
Exclusion:
· International round-trip airfare
· Major meals in
· Personal climbing equipment
· Insurance, should include evacuation
· Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks
· All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
· Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country
· Sherpa summit bonus ($1000).
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